Eaton Hill Textile Works
Class Schedule
  -  2008

 

 
Beginning and Intermediate Weaving
Offered one week a month
- Call to schedule
The beginning weaving course is designed for both the student who is a complete beginner and for those weavers who wish to refresh their warping and weaving skills.  It focuses on giving the student a good solid background in making a warp, dressing a loom and in weaving a 45" x 72" wool throw.  Multiple warping on a large warping frame will be covered in depth as well as dressing the loom from back to front.  The proper use of throwing the shuttle, setting a tenterhook and maintaining an even beat will be emphasized as well as the proper finishing of the woven piece.  This class is taught on 19th c. counter balance barn frame looms,  but all the techniques may be easily transferred to contemporary jack or counter marche looms.
Intermediate & Advanced Weaving
Offered one week a month - Call to schedule
The intermediate and advanced classes are for students who have knowledge of the basic weaving techniques and who now wish to focus on different weave structures and to perfect their technique.  These classes are custom designed to suit the specific needs of each student based on abilities, interests and scheduling needs.  Possible topics include drafting, working with fine threads, singles linen, summer-winter and overshot.
Special Sessions in Technique
Call to schedule

Weaving Fine Threads with Fine Setts

 

Overshot Coverlets

 

Singles Linen/Checked Linen

 

Scottish Tweed

 

Twills in Wool - Herringbones & Bird's Eyes

 

Rag Rugs, Weft Faced Rugs & Rep Woven Rugs

Special Sessions in Historic Textiles from 18th & 19th c.

Point Twills from 18th c. German draft books - 4, 8, 16 harnesses

Jan 7-11, 2008

5 Harness Spot Weaves from the 
Vermont Historical
Collection

Jan 14-18, 2008

Overshot & Summer Winter from
Keep Me Warm One Night

Feb 11-15, 2008

Dimities & Diapers from the Hargrove Draft Book

Mar 3-7, 2008

Huckabacks and M's & O's from 18th & 19th c. draft books

Apr 7-11, 2008

19th Clothing Fabrics in Silk - Cherry Derry's & Irish Stuffs

Apr 21-25, 2008

18th c. Clothing Fabrics in Worsted - Camlets & Calimanco's

May 5 - 9, 2008

18th c. Upholstery Fabric - Moreens & Harateens

May 19-23, 2008

18th Checked and Striped Fabrics in Linen - Siamoises

Jun 23-27, 2008

19th c. Dye Receipts - Wool & Silk

Jul 12&13, 2008

19th c. Dye Receipts - Cotton & Linen

Aug 9&10, 2008

Weekend Retreats

19th c. Household Textiles

Mar 15-16, 2008

Warping & Loom Dressing Refresher

Jun 7-8, 2008

 

Course Descriptions - Special Sessions in Technique

Weaving Fine Threads with Fine Setts
In this workshop participants will set up a loom with pre-made warp and weave a two yard sample of a project of their choice.  Project choices include:  a fine cotton threaded in 6 harness dimity, a singles linen threaded in a plain weave, a 70/2's linen threaded in a 5 harness Bronson, a 20/2 worsted wool in a tartan, and a fine wool singles threaded in a twill.  Samples of each project will be exchanged at the end of the session.

 

The Overshot Coverlet
To weave a full sized overshot coverlet is a dream of many weavers but all too few actually commit to completing such an ambitious project.  This session will help the student feel more comfortable with the whole process of understanding the drafts, planning a full sized piece with borders and in achieving an even beat in the weave.  We will weave a narrow piece of fabric with top, bottom and side borders that will be seamed up the center so that it resembles a miniature version of a full sized piece.
Singles Linen/Checked Linen
This workshop will cover all of the preparation steps and weaving techniques involved in weaving a piece of fine linen cloth.  Students will first measure out their warp into skeins, size these skeins with a 19th c. sizing receipt and then proceed to warp for either a pair of pillowcases or a set of checked napkins.  The method of warping an entire repeat of check with multiple strands will be demonstrated, as well as the techniques for achieving an even beat to square the checks in the weaving.  Techniques for proper beaming, bobbin winding and the use of a tenterhook (temple) will also be included.
 

Scottish Tweed
Using imported Scottish tweed yarn from a small mill in Scottish Highlands each student will design and weave a 5 yd piece of wool tweed suitable for clothing.  Woven in a 2/2 twill herringbone in the traditional width of 32", the fabric will also be finished in the traditional manner of "waulking."

 

Twills in Wool - Herringbones and Bird's Eyes
This session will focus on weaving a double bed blanket in a variety of twill designs.  Students will choose from a vast array of 2/2 twills, birds eye, and herringbones.  Using two or more colors, we will design a stripe, check or plaid pattern, incorporating the different twill elements into the design.

 

Rag Rugs, Weft Faced Rugs, & Rep Woven Rugs
This session will focus on the weaving of rugs using a simple weave structure to make rag rugs, weft faced rugs, or rep woven rugs.  Starting with two harness rag rugs, we will progress to three harness krokbrag and then finish with four harness warp-faced and rep-woven rugs.  The student will choose one of the three styles and weave a 30" x 60" piece with special attention given to the finishing of fringes, edges and binding.  Many examples of these three carpet styles will be on hand for inspiration.


Course Descriptions - Historic Textiles

Point Twills from 18th c. German Draft Books - 4, 8, 16 Harnesses
There are several wonderful German draft books available in printed form which have a multitude of complex designs for point twills that were used primarily with linen.  We will choose 4, 8, or 16 harness designs to weave fine linen or cotton toweling.  Some weaving experience necessary.

 

5 Harness Spots Weaves from the Collection of the Vermont Historical Society
In a recent cataloging project at the VHS, a vast array of 5 H Spot weaves were uncovered - each with a unique and well thought out design and each executed in very fine linen.  In this session we will choose one of those pieces to reproduce using a fine 2 ply linen and explore the different tie up options for weaving 5 harnesses on a counter balance loom.

 

Overshot & Summer Winter from Keep Me Warm
One Night

Keep Me Warm One Night is a fabulous resource of Canadian textiles from the 18th and 19th c. with many examples of overshot and summer winter weaves.  Students will choose a pattern from this book and weave a throw sized piece in cotton and natural dyed wool.

 

Dimities & Diapers from the John Hargrove Draft Book
Once again using an historic draft book as a design source, the student will choose one of the small-figured weaves from the Hargrove draft book to weave a piece of cotton yardage.  With fanciful names such as A Bumberet, Lady Rutlands Feather, and Worm and Cord, these fabrics were used for clothing, toweling and window treatments.


Huckabacks and M's & O's from 18th and 19th c.
Draft Books

In this session we will compare the drafts of some of the earliest versions of Huckaback and M's & O's.  Using the draft books of David Bender, Timothy Bent, Jesse Marsteller, Jacob Angst, Thomas Jackson, Silas Burton and Isaac Snavely, we will look at the differences and similarities between their notations of Huck and M's & O's.  Part of the workshop will be devoted to learning about deciphering historic drafts and then the student will choose a pattern from one of the seven draft books and weave a length of yardage for napkins or toweling.


18th c. Clothing Fabrics in Silk - Cherry Derrys and
Irish Stuffs

In this session we will concentrate on the fabrics of silk that were primarily used in 18th c. clothing.  Besides 100% silk fabrics, there were many other combinations used in the production of dress finery including silk and cotton, silk and worsted and silk, and mohair.  Some of the fabrics woven will be Cherry-Derry, Irish Stuffs, Batavias and Bombazines in 2 to 3 yard length , usable for a small article of clothing.


18th c. Clothing Fabrics in Worsted - Camlets and Calimanco's
Advertisements for runaway slaves in the 18th c. often referred to the type of clothing that slaves wore when they escaped and a common reference was to a brightly colored calimanco or camlet waistcoat.  These two fabrics were woven from a fine worsted wool, either plain or striped and were dyed with bright greens, yellows and reds.  In this session students may choose one of many designs from the Anders Berch book of samples or concentrate on an elegant plain camlet.
 


18th c. Upholstery Fabrics - Moreens & Harateens

Harateens and Moreens were both commonly used fabrics for upholstery and bed hangings in the 18th century.  The distinction appears to be in the manner that they were finished.  Students will weave a narrow piece of yardage using pre-dyed fine worsted yarn in the rep weave characteristic of both harateen and moreen, and then using a high pressure calendar press, experiment with different finishing techniques such as embossing and watering.


18th c. Checked and Striped Fabrics in Linen - Siamoises
Originally woven in silk, this group of fabrics was inspired by the garments worn by the King of Siam in his visit to Louis IV in the 1600's.  The French then went on to create a large market in Siamoises using the less expensive cotton and linen.  Starting with Textiles in America as a reference, students will weave a length of linen yardage in a stripe or check using natural dyed linen.

 

(sample coming soon)

19th c. Dye Receipts - Wool & Silk
In this two day workshop we will not only sample a variety of colors but also actually dye quantities of yarn for future weaving projects.  The primary dyes will be indigo, madder, fustic, cutch, cochineal brazilwood and logwood.  With the use of different mordants and overdyeing we will achieve some of the long forgotten colors of Bottle Green, Venetian Scarlet and Saxon Blue
19th c. Dye Receipts - Cotton & Linen
This two day workshop will run along the same lines as the one for wool in that we will dye quantities of yarn as well as a sample a variety of different receipts.  The primary dyes for this class will be indigo, fustic, cutch, cochineal, brazilwood and logwood.  The pre-mordanting of cotton and linen will be covered in depth as this step was crucial in achieving a lasting and deep color.  We will sample some of the colors used in the 18th & 19th c. called Prussian Blue, Egyptian Purple and Iron Buff.

Weekend Retreats
19th c. Household Textiles
This intensive two day workshop will give participants an opportunity to weave a sampling of the types of textiles woven by rural handweavers of the 19th c. New England.  Six looms will be set up with cotton towelling, colonial overshot, striped carpeting, wool plaid blanketing, linsey-woolsey and linen napkin fabric.
Warping & Loom Dressing Refresher
This workshop will cover all the basic information from planning a project and calculating yarn amounts to getting the loom tied up and ready to begin weaving.  We will demonstrate multiple warping, the different methods of beaming on, threading, sleying, tying up shafts and treadles and the use of a tenterhook.  For those of you who haven't woven in years but would like to get back to it!

Fees  and Scheduling Information

The fee for all five day sessions is $500.00 or $100.00/day plus materials.  The price for the two day dye intensive is $250.00 plus materials. 

To register for the scheduled classes send a $50.00 deposit made out to Eaton Hill Textiles at least two weeks before the session begins:

Eaton Hill Textile Works
334 Jake Martin Road
Marshfield
VT.  05658

Directions and other pertinent information will be sent upon receipt of the deposit.  Lodging is available at:

Lone Rock Farm (802) 426-3073
The Marshfield Inn (802) 426-3383
Hollister Hill Farm Bed & Breakfast (802) 426-7725

For more information call (802) 426-3733 or email eatonhill@fairpoint.net